A 35-minute on-court lesson built around one idea — win the kitchen by keeping every dink shallow, taking balls out of the air, and never drifting wide.
Watch on YouTubeBobby's been playing about a year and a half — call it a 4.0. He gets to the net fine; the trouble is holding position at the kitchen and finishing points once he's there. So the plan is a dinking drill: warm up, then fix what's leaking.

Every ball has a life: it lands, you can catch the short hop in the first couple inches, then it ascends to its apex, then it descends. The apex — the highest point — is where the ball is easiest to maneuver. Hit it there and you put less loft on it, which makes it easier to drop into the opponent's court.

You dink because the ball is at or below the level of the net, so you have to swing up. The mistake is manipulating the ball up with the spine and shoulder. Instead, start the paddle below the ball and push forward. The drill: bounce the ball, let it reach its apex, and catch it from underneath — first with a pool-noodle scooper, then with the paddle itself.

A lot of bounces means you didn't catch it at the apex. It's okay.— Josh
Bobby's been keeping dinks at or below a fake yellow line on the court — good. The balls that travel deep, into the green past the kitchen, end rallies fast. Drill it with targets: a "military" left-right-left, alternating blue and gold, so the dinks stay shallow and stop drifting to one side.

Same principle in the air: paddle head open, get below the level of the ball, let the paddle do the work. Taking the ball out of the air takes reaction time away from the opponent, lets you hit at a higher point, and — most importantly — keeps you up at the kitchen instead of getting pulled back.

The whole purpose of pickleball, to play winning pickleball, is get up to the kitchen so we can hit winners.— Josh
The goal is to hit the ball in a comfortable outstretched position — the farther from your body, the higher and easier the shot. Bobby's a little stiff and straight up, so the fix is mechanical: widen the stance, splay the toes slightly, get the shoulders over the knees and the knees over the toes. Then you just reach out instead of leaning and hoping.

feet apart, toes slightly splayed out.
shoulders over knees, knees over toes.
take the ball outstretched in front, not stiff and upright.
The backhand is where Bobby gets attacked. On a good drop to the backhand, the mentality is to concede the kitchen — let them have it — rather than forcing an aggressive shot. Mechanically: get the paddle head down, keep the wrist firm, take a step back, and push with the shoulder. Then get right back to ready.

A pickleball paddle has no strings, the ball is cold plastic, and there's a net in the way — so you can't scoop under and hope. The fix is to start with the face open: make the back of the paddle face your face, keep your spine angle constant, and shovel forward with a shift of weight. No lifting the spine, no flicking the wrist open mid-stroke.

We can't be scooping under and trying to hope the strings, the bracket, catch the ball. We've got to be locked down here to the target.— Josh
With a partner, middle coverage follows the ball: whoever's crosscourt to the ball pinches in to cover the middle. The prevailing habit should be to condense the middle and take that option away. The biggest mistake on crosscourt dinks is drifting to the sideline for accuracy — it feels safer, but it surrenders positional pressure and leaves the middle wide open.

Final layer: the outer edge of the paddle tracks the ball like a laser pointer, keeping you neutral but strong to reach either the backhand or forehand. From there you only defend a segment of the court — block anything hit hard down the middle, but let the hard balls at your outer hip and shoulder go out. By the end, Bobby's stacking it all: out of the air, shallow, middle plugged.

That was like five things he wasn't doing before he got here, doing now.— Josh